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Castles in the Border Cheviot Hills

It’s a CASTLE but not as we know it, is a statement proved by it’s definition in the Oxford Dictionary. ie. chateau, citadel, donjon, fastness. fortress, keep, mansion, palace, peel, stronghold, tower.

 The one word not used with context to our present use of the word is CAPITAL, as until the Middles Ages (1,000 – 1,500 ad) when most of our castles were built they were the centre of a empire or kingdom.

 Fortified homes or cities were built throughout Europe and the rest of the World for over three thousand years prior to that, although the first serious fortifications in Britain were constructed by the Romans during their 400 year occupation until the fifth Century.

 After the Romans left the Border regions north of Hadrian’s Wall was the centre of  inter family kingdom feuding which was to continue for the next thousand years.

 Until the Romans wood was the main material with which to build a defensive home, after their departure the abandoned stone garrisons etc. were plundered for the ready prepared building bricks.

 Hence the earliest stone bastilles or peel towers are in the northern border regions, followed in the south of England after the Normans invaded in 1066. But still built as the capitol of a region from which to attack and plunder the neighbours and protect the occupants from attack.


Harbottle Castle    North Northumberland

Located high up the Coquet valley in the Cheviot Hills the ruins of a 12th century motte and bailey castle are worth a visit to those who venture of the beaten track in the border hills. Past Rothbury just before Alwinton Harbottle village is a quiet faming community, there is a car park just past the village from which one can visit the ruins and Drakes Stone  high on the hillside over looking the village.

Built for Henry II by Odinel d'Umfraville who was based in Prudhoe Castle on the river Tyne, Harbottle was strategic in protecting cross border trails and saw much action being captured by Robert the Bruce in 1318 and latterly owned by Henry VIII, after which it lost it's importance and by 1600's had fallen into disrepair.


Prudhoe Castle    Tynedale, Northumberland

Built by Robert d’Umfraville after he was granted the barony of Prudhoe by Henry I and his son Odinel who although brought up under the Scottish king later sided with Henry the II, when William the Lion’s army advanced south in 1173.

The Scottish king failed twice to take Prudhoe Castle during this conflict and was eventually captured by Odinel at Alnwick where he signed the treaty of Falaise recognising Henry as the Lord of Scotland. Odinel also built a castle further north in the Cheviot Hills on the river coquet.

The Umfraville line ceased in 1381 with Henry Percy married Gilbert Umfraville’s widow and took procession after which although always inhabited Prudhoe Castle fell into ruin until the 19th century when the 2nd Duke of Northumberland Henry Percy repaired the outer wall and built a new Manor House within.

Odinel also built a castle further north at Harbottle in the Cheviot Hills on the river coquet

Etal Castle       near Berwick upon Tweed

The foundations of Etal Castle were a three tier home, fortified in 1341 by Robert Manners with a perimeter wall with corner towers and gatehouse which still remains.

In 1513 the castle was unoccupied and easily taken by James I of Scotland, when he invaded England eventually resulting in his death nearby in the Battle of Flodden.

It became the Crown’s property during the 16th Century but by the 1600’s with the unification of the English & Scottish Crowns, Etal had little military value and left to deteriorate.

English Heritage maintain the ruins with a battle museum to enhance a worth while visit and day out in the local vicinity.


Norham Castle      Inland of Berwick upon Tweed

Norham Castle built in the 12th century by Bishop Ranulph Flambard of Durham, to command his northern most land and the important crossing point over the Tweed river.

It  was attacked on many occasions and captured by the Scots for a brief period in 1136, they returned two years later and destroyed it.

It’s strategic value lead to Henry II ordering that it be rebuilt in stone which the present Bishop did in the 1160s constructing a two tier tower with a cellar.

It’s location on the border attracted many Scottish invading armies to lay siege on Norham, for forty days in 1215 and in 1318 Robert the Bruce laid siege to the 12th century keep for a full year returning for seven months the following year.

It was thought impregnable until it captured in 1327 and relinquished the following year, it was again besieged in 1497 when before retreating the Scots had inflicted considerable damage with the then huge cannon called Mons Meg which is available to view in Edinburgh Castle.

It eventually fell due to cannon fire in 1513 when James IV of Scotland took it by storm, only to loose it and his life nearby in the Battle of Flodden.

It lost it’s strategic role in 1603 when James VI of Scotland ascended to the English throne becoming James I and unified the two countries


Berwick Castle    North Northumberland Coastal Border Town

There are remains in Berwick of a Castle dating from the 12th century although the existing fortifications originate from the 16th century and later.

From 1296 when Edward I of England besieged the castle it changed hands many times before hostilities ceased between the two countries, possibly seeing more action than most being on the border and  the main crown prized by both sides.

The purpose-built Barracks now houses museums including "By Beat of Drum" which depicts the history of the British Army. The Borough Art Gallery and the Kings Own Scottish Borderers Regimental Museums are also within there.

The original stronghold was used to build more modern barracks, some was cleared in the 18th Century to make way for the railway station. Only the White Wall remains which drops from the rail line to the river banks below, adjacent to steep stairway known as Brakeneck Stairs.

Chillingham Castle     North Northumberland

Chillingham is now a family home which had impressive fortifications built by Sir Thomas Grey in 1344 when he was given permission to defend his property. He erected a perimeter wall with four corner towers around his quadrangle and courtyard.

It was put to use by Sir Robert Ellerker who defended his property during the ‘Pilgrimage of Grace’ in 1536 and made extensive repairs after the canon bombardment.

Further modifications were made in preparation for King James I of Scotland who stayed briefly en-route to his coronation in England.

Very little of the fortifications remains after extensive modifications in the 18th & 19th Centuries into a stately home in more peaceful times. The entire Estate has a perimeter wall within which the rare Chillingham Castle have been protected from cross breading, privately owned the estate is open to visitors.


Edlingham Castle    near Alnwick

Edlingham is located to the west of Alnwick on one of Northumberland’s most picturesque drives to Rothbury, it was built by John de Edlingham c.1250 as a two storey home.

Sir William de Felton extended the property in 1296 adding a moat and gatehouse for security, his son in 1340 added a tower and perimeter wall.

During the 15th Century ownership passed to the Hastings family and then to the Swinburne’s in the 16th Century when the need for fortified protection was diminishing.

It was deserted by 1650 when it was used as a farm and is now maintained by English Heritage


Dunstanburgh Castle      Northumberland Coast

The castle was built by the Thomas Earl of Lancaster a nephew of King Edward II in the early 14th Century to defend the harbour of Craster and changed hands four times during the Wars of the Roses in the 15th Century.

He was not a favourite of the King and required protection, he lead a group who captured and executed one of the Kings loyal followers a Peirs Gaveston. Although later pardoned he continued to oppose the King and was eventually caught and executed in 1322.

It has a large imposing gatehouse erected in 1362 by John Gaunt a son of King Edward III, it overlooks the approach and internal courtyard into which to the locals would retreat for protection

Henry VI's wife Margaret was caught within the castle during a siege and escaped out to sea by being lowered to a boat below from the tower named after her. During the Wars of the Roses in the later half of the 15th Century it was occupied by Lancastrians and was left in ruins after a heavy cannon bombardment.

It is a English Heritage site accessed by a two kilometer walk along the coast from the Craster a small fishing harbour which still supports inshore coble fishermen and an Oak Smokehouse for their fresh herring which produces Kippers for sale daily.

Alnwick Castle    Northern Northumberland

Is still privately owned and the home of the present Duke of Northumberland, unlike some castles which stand high and proud for all to see. Alnwick is low and concealed from marauding invaders which included the Scandinavian Norske and Vikings as well as the Scots.

The castle by the river Aln was founded in 1096 by the Norman Baron Yvo de Vescy who was granted the land by William the Conqueror who was crowned King of England on Christmas day in 1066 after invading from Normandy earlier that year.

Two hundred years later the Percy family acquired the castle and estate and started developing it as it is laid out today with a fortified wall around the town with various entry gates and towers..

By the mid 18th Century it was mostly derelict when Sir Hugh Smithson inherited the estate and began a restoration into a grand stately when he became the first Duke of Northumberland.

Algernon the fourth Duke continued the rebuilding work in the 19th Century to the state which it remains today. The present Duke has opened parts of the castle to the public and a cascading water feature within the walled gardens which is also open to the public.


Warkworth Castle    Northumberland Coast

The impressive structure can be seen for miles, built in the 12th Century by Earl Henry on a high mound over looking the village protected by the Coquet river on two sides and a moote with a bridge protecting the majestic entrance gate.

Henry was the son David I 'King of Scots' who lost the castle in 1157 when Henry II took control of Northumberland from the Scots and gave the castle to Roger Fitzgerald until it was acquired by the Percy family in 1332.

Although the Percy's ruled most of the North of England owning many castles including Alnwick Castle only a few miles away, they occupied Warkworth for extensive periods making many additions to the structure including a keep in the 1,500's.

Powerful as the Percy's were they often feuded with the Crown they lost and regained Warkworth on many occassions until Henry Percy the sixth Earl left the castle to King Henry VIII when he died in 1537.

The seventh Earl was executed by Elizabeth I in 1572 after a revolt by the Kingdoms in the north, which resulted in Warkworth being pillaged and left to deteriorate.


Lindisfarne Castle     Holy Island near Bamburgh

St Aidan founded the Monastery with other missionaries from Iona on Holy Island in 634, it was later destroyed by the Danes in 794 and abandoned in 875.

The Normans built a Priory for St Cuthbert’s Benedictine Monks in 1082, the remains of which are in the care of the National Trust and open to the public with an informative visitors centre.

The castle stands proud on a rocky knoll overlooking the sea originated in the 16th Century Castle, it was completed in 1571 to protect the English Vessels during the war with Scotland.

It lost it’s strategic role in 1603 when James IV ascended to the English throne and unified the two countries, although a garrison remained there till the end of the 1800s. During the 20th Century it was a private family home in which role it is maintained and opened to the public by the National Trust.


Bamburgh   North Northumbrian Coast

Archaeologists have determined that the basalt mound on which Bamburgh Castle stands upon has been in use since before 100 BC and was occupied during the Roman period, prior to the first historical mention in 547 as Bebbanburgh.

Bamburgh was the seat of the Anglo Saxon King Ida the Flamebearer who made himself King of Bernicia, his grandson Ethelfrith later became King of Northumbria and gave the castle to his wife Bebba.

In 627 AD King Edward of Northumberland asked Paulinus from Rome to preach Christianity to his people, after his death in a squabble with Pagan enemies his son Oswald brought Aiden from Iona to found a Monastery on a Lindisfarne island later known as Holy Island in 635 AD.

Northumberland was then a centre of learning for three Centuries until 993 when the Vikings in their longboats approached from the sea, the fortifications held against three assaults till it fell and was left in ruins.

The Norman William Rufus in 1095 captured the husband of Matilda the Countess of Northumberland, he held him hostage threatening to blind him until Matilda surrendered the fortress to him.

He built a new stone fortification being the origins of the present castle which remained impregnable as a loyal stronghold to the crown against the Scots and insurgence for over four centuries.

It finally fell during the Wars of the Roses in 1464 to the Earl of Warwick a Richard Neville who bombarded it with cannons until it surrendered being, this being the first castle to be captured from artillery fire.

The ruins fell into disrepair with only the castle keep still remaining, much of what exists today is quiet modern with restorations during the 19th Century until it was sold in 1894 to the Industrialist Lord Armstrong.

Bamburgh Castle remains the home of the Armstrong family, it is open to the public and houses the Armstrong Museum of Victorian Industrial Archaeology.

 To visit Castles On the Northumbrian Coast - CLICK HERE

CLICK HERE - To visit Castles On the Scottish Border  


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